Longhorn cattle, cowboys and cowgirls ambling through downtown Denver at noon Thursday will kick off the annual National Western Stock Show.
The two weeks of big hats and tall boots, rodeo, mutton bustin’ and Wild West shows take the big city back to its historic cowtown roots. It’s the time of year when hundreds of thousands of people hit the wind-swept stockyards north of the city, dirt flying, to pet goats, marvel at dogs performing heroic tricks, sample food that should not be food and watch some of the country’s best riders and ropers.
Here are a few things you need to know about the National Western Stock Show, which runs through Jan. 21.
Who to watch
Routt County’s Keenan Hayes, national bareback champ
A 20-year-old cowboy from Hayden, near Steamboat Springs, won the national championship in bareback riding last month. Keenan Hayes, who started riding mini steers at age 8 and graduated to bareback horses, won the National Finals Rodeo in Las Vegas in December, capping off an outstanding year of wins.
The National Western’s official lineup of rodeo contenders isn’t released until today, but Hayes confirmed to The Sun that he’s competing Jan. 11 and 12.
Hayes has been rising in the rodeo rankings for a few years. At age 19, the Routt County resident finished in the top 10 at last year’s National Western, getting bucked by horses called Painted Pistolera and Mesquite Thorn.
Three top rodeo clowns are rotating the jokes
Rodeo clowns — who are also known as bullfighters or part of a rodeo protection team — are legit badasses. Their job is to distract a 1,500-pound angry bull with horns in order to protect the cowboy after he flies off the bull’s back and hits the dirt. They might look ridiculous, with their painted faces and baggy pants, but they’re arguably the bravest dudes at a rodeo — not counting the bull riders trying their hardest to hold on for eight seconds.
For the first time, the National Western will have three rodeo clowns in rotation throughout the 16-day event. In prior years, the show had one bullfighter for all Professional Bull Riders events and one for all Professional Rodeo Cowboys Association events.
Rotating them keeps the content fresh year after year, meaning the audience won’t hear the same banter with the announcer and see the same entertainment bits between bull rides. After all, there are 29 rodeo performances during the two weeks of the National Western, and many of the entertainers and competitors were just at the National Finals Rodeo in Las Vegas.
This year’s three rodeo clowns are Matt Merritt, who has a reputation for his dancing skills, Tate Rhoads, who took up bullfighting at age 14, and Allan Dessel, who also teaches high school math and physics.
Wranglers on horseback herd a group of longhorn cattle through Denver’s financial district, during the annual parade kicking off the National Western Stock Show in 2013. (Brennan Linsley, AP Photo)
What to see
The Coors Western Art Show has a new curator
For the first time in almost 30 years, the Coors Western Art Exhibit and Sale won’t have Rose Fredrick’s fingerprint on it. Fredrick was hired in 1998 as curator of the art show, which takes place on the third floor of the National Western Complex during the Stock Show. For two-and-a-half decades, Fredrick built the show into a million-dollar enterprise and nearly tripled the number of artists on display. This year, Kate Hlavin takes the reins.
Part of the allure of Western art is repetition. Marlboro men, Santa Fe sunsets, buffalo herds and sandstone bluffs are recurring motifs in Western art, and that adherence to tradition provides a level of comfort to its collectors. Over the years as the Coors show grew, Fredrick’s strategy shifted to focus on a younger generation of art collectors. She didn’t completely recast the Western Art mold, but had an eye for artists who could operate outside of it. She introduced the crowd to artists like Maeve Eichelberger, whose Plexiglass saddles were unusual enough to stand out, but “Western” enough to fit in. That said, there are plenty of classic cowboys and creek-carved landscapes for those who appreciate the genre’s lineage and traditional values.
Denver is a hot spot for the Western art genre, so if the Coors show leaves you curious for more, head downtown. If you’re more inclined toward classic interpretations, the Western art collection on the 7th floor of the Denver Art Museum is worth a look, and the American Museum of Western Art is only a few blocks away. For those intrigued by more contemporary renditions, check out the Museum of Contemporary Art’s “Cowboy” exhibition, on display until Feb. 18, and the “Counter Cowboy II” group exhibition at Visions West Contemporary.
Entry to the Coors Western Art Exhibit is included in the Stock Show’s general admission. Revenue from the sale of art is divided among the artists, the Stock Show and the National Western Scholarship Trust, which funds Colorado and Wyoming college students pursuing agriculture, rural medicine or veterinary science.
How to get there
Public transit options
N Line runs every 30 minutes between Union Station and the National Western Complex. Quickest and most reliable option.
48 bus runs from the Civic Center to the National Western Complex (except during the Stock Show parade). A 25-minute bus ride to the Brighton Boulevard and 47th Avenue stop on the northeastern side of the complex. Exit and walk down 47th toward the Stock Show.
3-hour pass — $2.75
Day pass — $5.50
Youth 19 and under ride for free
On the day of the parade
The National Western Stock Show Parade starts at Union Station, at the intersection of Wynkoop and 17th streets and will continue up 17th Street for 12 blocks before ending at Glenarm Place. (The end point is just short of the Brown Palace hotel, where the steer or heifer named grand champion in the junior livestock show will be penned up in the lobby 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. on Jan. 19, sipping water from a silver bowl.)
Drivers should expect road closures around the parade route, which returns up 18th Street.
To get there, RTD is encouraging spectators to use the Next Ride web app to plan their trip and receive service alerts.
Many bus routes will detour for the parade, including routes 0, 1, 6, 8, 9, 10, 15, 15L, 19, 20, 28, 38, 43, 44, 48, 52.
RTD will also pause its light rail service for the D, H and L lines downtown at 11 a.m. during the parade. All D and H lines will end at the Theatre District Convention Center Station and the L line service will not run during the parade. The Free MallRide service will also be suspended between 11:30 and 1:30 p.m.
Regular train service will resume around 2 p.m. after the parade ends.
Work underway at the National Western Stock Show complex grounds in April 2019 amid construction. (Photo By Kathryn Scott)
A more connected complex
The National Western Complex sits on the same plot of land where the very first Western Stock Show took place, under a big top circus tent, in 1906. Over the past century the show and its complex has grown significantly, but remained largely isolated from the rest of Denver. This year, a decade’s worth of infrastructure projects (some of which are ongoing) has finally stitched the complex into its surrounding communities — Globeville to the north and west, Elyria-Swansea to the east, and Five Points/RiNo (River North Art District) to the south.
At the South Platte River’s edge, a new 6-acre greenspace called “Riverfront” opened in June, with walking trails and picnic tables replacing wastewater pipes and freight rail lines. A bridge spanning the South Platte at 51st street connects the Elyria and Globeville neighborhoods.
Heading toward downtown, the $1.3 billion Central 70 Project also wrapped up this summer, establishing 7 miles of north-south sidewalks that pass beneath Interstate 70. The Brighton Boulevard connection in particular provides a new lifeline from the complex into the Five Points/RiNo area, which saw the completion of its own $32 million sidewalk improvement project a few years ago.
Although you’re still welcome to while away your day drinking Coors under the railroad tracks, the new sidewalks and bridges mean you can visit more bars, breweries and local cafés.
Where to find a morning brew or a beer while in town
These 10 nearby hot spots are worth a stop.
Convenient cafés and breakfast restaurants
Blue Sparrow Coffee, 3070 Blake St. #180 in Denver. Open every day from 6:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.
This cozy coffee shop serves a good cup of coffee along with a variety of more flavorful drinks, including a few different lattes, iced coffees and kombucha. You can pair your drink with a freshly made croissant, Danish or brownie and snag a seat inside or outdoors on the dog-friendly patio.
Crema Coffee House, 2862 Larimer St. in Denver. Open every day from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.
This coffee spot, located in the heart of Denver’s River North Art District, RiNo), has an artsy flair with colorful murals both inside and outside and what the internet describes as “a chill hipster vibe.” You can get a house cup of coffee or something with a higher dose of caffeine like a cappuccino, macchiato or latte. Crema also has a heartier breakfast and lunch menu than other cafés with breakfast burritos and waffles along with sandwiches for meat lovers and vegetarians. This coffee spot also features a dog-friendly patio.
Butcher Block Cafe, 1701 38th St. in Denver. Open Mondays through Saturdays from 5 a.m. to 3 p.m. and Sundays from 6 a.m. to 3 p.m.
This family-owned restaurant is the closest restaurant to the National Western Complex and has all the makings of a small-town diner with a menu full of comfort food — from omelets, pancakes and homemade cinnamon rolls to burgers and chicken fried-steak. The service is fast and friendly and the meals are filling with some of the cheapest prices in the area. Butcher Block Cafe is a particularly good option if you’re short on time and getting hangry.
A fast meal that’s not fast food
Denver Central Market, 2669 Larimer St. in Denver. Open Sundays through Thursdays from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Fridays and Saturdays from 8 a.m. to 11 p.m.
This public market is well worth a visit, whether you’re searching for a good meal or have a spare half hour to explore. The RiNo market has fare for all kinds of palates, whether you’re in the mood for an artisan pizza, steak or lamb, a fresh smoothie, a platter of nachos or a pint of creamy ice cream. You can order your food to go or sit down at a table to savor your meal while chefs and other visitors buzz all around. The alleyway, where some of the neighborhood’s signature murals are splashed on the walls, offers another place to eat if you prefer a quieter setting.
Shake Shack, 2995 Larimer St. in Denver. Open every day from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
This fast-casual burger joint, part of a chain, has a whole slew of sandwiches capable of refueling any rodeo-goer. The ShackBurger is their signature item, with a patty, lettuce, tomato and ShackSauce. If you want to be more adventurous, you can try the Spicy ShackMeister, the avocado bacon burger, the Colorado-only green chile CheddarShack or one of Shake Shack’s chicken sandwiches. Don’t forget a side order of cheese fries (or bacon cheese fries!) and one of their hand-spun shakes (including a new cinnamon roll flavor).
Finer dining experiences
Barcelona Wine Bar, 2900 Larimer St. in Denver. Open Mondays through Wednesdays from 4 p.m. to midnight; Thursdays from 2 p.m. to midnight; Fridays from 2 p.m. to 1 a.m.; Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.; and Sundays from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
This Spanish-flavored wine bar is one of the neighborhood’s trendiest spots with a sophisticated bar and dining room where you can still get away with your casual Stock Show jeans and flannel. The menu features a full list of wines from Spain and South America and specializes in small plates meant to be shared, including charcuterie and cheese, spiced beef empanadas, pork tenderloin and seared diver scallops. Barcelona Wine Bar also has cocktails, sangria and beer if wine isn’t your first choice. Reservations are wise here as the restaurant often draws a crowd.
Il Posto, 2601 Larimer St. in Denver. Closed on Mondays and open Tuesdays through Thursdays from noon to 8:30 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; and Sundays from 3 p.m. to 8:30 p.m.
This Italian restaurant is one of RiNo’s most upscale dining venues, where you can fill up on classic dishes — including gnocchi, bucatini, tortellini and risotto — or try any one of a handful of meaty entrees: steak tartare, flank steak, pork belly pampanella, pressed chicken and beef angus porterhouse for two. The restaurant also serves several seafood dishes and a lineup of desserts that include gelato, cannoli cake and dark-chocolate mousse. The restaurant offers lunch and dinner and has a separate brunch menu.
Breweries to start or end the night
Ratio Beerworks, 2920 Larimer St. in Denver. Open Mondays through Wednesdays from noon to 11 p.m.; Thursdays and Fridays from noon to midnight; Saturdays from 11 a.m. to midnight; and Sundays from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.
This RiNo microbrewery emerged from punk rockers-turned-brewers and is one of the city’s edgier places to grab a craft beer. Inside, you can expect to stroll up to the bar while punk rock songs blare in the background. The brewery has a range of beers on tap, including IPAs, a Mexican-style lager, an award-winning carrot elderflower saison, a French saison, a chocolate rye scotch ale, a peach raspberry sour and more. And much like the rest of the neighborhood, the brewery’s building is adorned with vibrant murals and has a dog-friendly patio with outdoor seating.
Our Mutual Friend Brewing, 2810 Larimer St. in Denver. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.
Housed in a building covered in a kaleidoscope of bright colors, this craft brewery is one you won’t miss while wandering throughout RiNo. The brewery’s menu is divided into distinct flavors of brews. Want a light and crisp drink? Try one of its pilsners or an amber ale aged with amburana wood. Prefer something smokey? The CO Smoked Helles Lager or Norwegian Smoked Dark Strong Ale might be for you. The brewery also pours drinks that are funky and sour, hoppy, and strong and heavy. You can down them inside or on the adjoining dog-friendly patio.
14er Brewing & Beer Garden, 3120 Blake St., Suite C, in Denver. Open Mondays through Thursdays from 3 p.m. to 9 p.m.; Fridays from 2 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Saturdays from noon to 10 p.m.; and Sundays from 1 p.m. to 7 p.m.
This RiNo brewery, whose name gives a nod to Colorado’s tallest peaks, has a carefully crafted mix of beers, hard slushies and seltzers, and nonalcoholic creations. Flavors run the gamut — from a piña colada slushy, a peach cobbler seltzer and a lime watermelon jalapeño seltzer to four kombucha options — including pineapple peach and ginger grapefruit — to lagers, sours, an Italian-style pilsner and a fruity IPA. Try more than one with a flight, and sip your selection in the brewery’s dog-friendly beer garden.
Wynkoop Brewing Company, 1634 18th St., Denver. Open 11 a.m. daily.
A bit of a hike from the National Western grounds, but close to the posh hotels where stockmen and women stay during the show, the bar that birthed the craftbrewing industry in Colorado is a reliable spot to belly up any time of the day for perfectly delicious — and normal — food and drink. Known for its responsiveness to community (which is why the draft lineup includes chile infused beer created and named for the cowboy boot wearing publisher of Westword alt weekly), Wynkoop will deliver during the Stock Show, tapping kegs of its iconic Rocky Mountain Oyster Stout flavored with Colorado malts and 25 pounds of freshly sliced and roasted bull testicles. Trust us, it’s good. If you prefer your adventure in solid form, starting Jan. 4, the restaurant also has a mid-day special, the OG Sack Lunch, featuring fried strips of Rocky Mountain Oysters served with horseradish dipping sauce.