Colorado State University water resources specialist Perry Cabot, left, plans with farm manager Jim Fry how to plant a Kernza in a field at the Western Colorado Research Center's Grand Valley Agricultural Experiment Station near Fruita. (Gretel Daugherty, Special to The Colorado Sun)

With the flashlight shining out of the back of his cellphone, Perry Cabot, a water resources specialist at Colorado State Universityโ€™s Western Colorado Research Center in Fruita, hunched behind a grain drill, a piece of equipment farmers use to plant seeds in a field. The research centerโ€™s operations manager, Jim Fry, piloted a tractor that slowly dragged the equipment through the dirt. Cabot followed along, pointing the light toward the bottom of the machine. 

โ€œIโ€™m just trying to make sure the seed is dropping out,โ€ Cabot said. He hadnโ€™t necessarily seen anything wrong with the equipment; itโ€™s just that, well, it never hurts to double or triple check.

Cabot seemed particularly excited about what was going into the ground at the CSU facility on a sunny morning last week in Fruita, a strain of intermediate wheatgrass that produces a grain most commonly referred to by its trade name Kernza. Cabot thinks Kernza has potential as both a forage and a grain crop in different parts of Colorado, and the research center is attempting to plant it for the first time in the Grand Valley. โ€œIt feels like weโ€™re charting uncharted territory,โ€ Cabot said. โ€œYou donโ€™t get that as often in this line of work. So, thatโ€™s exciting.โ€ 

One of the reasons for Cabotโ€™s excitement is that Kernza, a perennial, possesses something of a superpower in a Western region experiencing the driest 22-year stretch of the past 1,200 years, a climate pattern that has zapped stream flows and led to water managers drawing down the nationโ€™s two largest reservoirs to critically low levels: This wheatgrass is especially drought tolerant. 

Cabot estimates Kernza could consume about 30% less water than, say, alfalfa hay, a dominant forage crop in Colorado and elsewhere in the West. 

โ€œThat would be a conservative estimate,โ€ Cabot said. โ€œI suspect it will be even more.โ€ 

After three passes in the field with the grain drill, Fry, the farm manager, offered a slightly different view on the whole experiment. โ€œThe farmer never gets excited until he sees something growing,โ€ Fry said with a smile. โ€œIโ€™ll get excited when this is a nice green mat of Kernza.โ€ 

โ€œJimmy is the grounded farmer,โ€ Cabot said. โ€œIโ€™m just the wild-eyed optimist.โ€

Ben Bentele, right, and Bill Szasz pour Kernza seed into a grain drill as they prepare to plant a variety of the drought-tolerant wheatgrass in a field at Colorado State University’s Western Colorado Research Center Grand Valley Agricultural Experiment Station in Fruita on Thursday. Bentele is a horticulturist with the university’s Organic Research Station at Rogers Mesa, and Szasz is a research associate at the Grand Valley station. (Gretel Daugherty, Special to The Colorado Sun)

More with less

Cabot and the team at the Fruita research center are planting the perennial grain as part of a collaborative effort with The Land Institute, a nonprofit agricultural research organization based in Kansas that developed and named the wheatgrass. The idea is to evaluate the viability of Kernza in the Grand Valley and other parts of the Western Slope. 

Farmers in the central Plains states have been growing Kernza for decades, primarily as a high-quality forage, said Tessa Peters, director of crop stewardship at The Land Institute. The conditions in Fruita are of course different โ€” different soil, different elevation, different growing season. Still, itโ€™s no wonder thereโ€™s interest, Peters said.

โ€œWe all know the Colorado River Basin is experiencing significant reductions in the amount of water that is available for both agriculture and for human populations downstream,โ€ she said. โ€œAnd so one thing that is of interest for these crops in Colorado is that thereโ€™s the potential that they will need less irrigation.โ€ She added, โ€œItโ€™s not magic, but itโ€™s pretty drought tolerant and produces high-quality forage and hay for cattle.โ€ 

Kernzaโ€™s potential to grow in low-water scenarios caught the attention of Kremmling rancher Paul Bruchez, who is also preparing to plant a few test plots this fall on his family ranch in Grand County. โ€œWe have wheatgrasses growing on our ranch, most places do, thatโ€™s not necessarily anything groundbreaking,โ€ Bruchez said. โ€œBut the root system depth is bonkers โ€” 12 to 15 feet.โ€ 

If Bruchez can get those deep root systems established on a meadow in Kremmling, he thinks Kernza might be able to provide him with some flexibility over how he uses his water supply for irrigation. 

โ€œIf you had a sprinkler or drip and were applying the perfect amount of water to this plant, I do not think it will save water,โ€ Bruchez said. โ€œBut if youโ€™re going through periods where you are short, if the roots are established, you would have a crop whether you irrigated or not.โ€

The Nature Conservancy is partnering with Bruchez on research regarding potential alternative crops, ones that might be better suited to a Western U.S. that doesnโ€™t have as much water to go around. โ€œWe are interested in pursuing any and all methods that can help ag adapt to a future with less water in a way that allows them to continue to be economically successful,โ€ said Aaron Derwingson, water projects director at The Nature Conservancyโ€™s Colorado River Program. 

Derwingson said heโ€™s felt a shift even in just the past six months in the sense of urgency for big ideas that might help with the water crisis on the Colorado River. 

โ€œWeโ€™re going to need more permanent types of solutions and permanently taking land out of production makes all of us a little nervous,โ€ Derwingson said. Having an option for a farmer to plant a crop that uses less water and thus allows that farmer to keep ag land intact and productive is promising, he said. 

In Colorado, irrigated agriculture accounts for about 72% of the stateโ€™s Colorado River water use, according to provisional Bureau of Reclamation numbers.

For Bruchez, the plan this first year is to try to get some of this wheatgrass to germinate. No one has tried to grow this stuff at 8,000 feet in as short of a growing season as exists up by Kremmling, he said. โ€œItโ€™s very exciting, but weโ€™ll start with some baby steps.โ€

There could also be some potential upsides to the growing conditions around Grand County, Peters said. โ€œIn Kansas, it probably needs a lot more water than somewhere like Kremmling, where itโ€™s nice and cool,โ€ she said. โ€œWhat we really want to understand is how those two things are related.โ€

Jim Fry displays a handful of drought-tolerant Kernza seed Thursday before planting the wheatgrass variety in a field at Colorado State University’s Western Colorado Research Center Grand Valley Agricultural Experiment Station near Fruita. (Gretel Daugherty, Special to The Colorado Sun)

Bread and booze

One of the other aspects of Kernza that has Cabot excited is its potential as a perennial cover crop that could have an added benefit of being marketed as a grain. The Land Institute, Cabot said, has already shown thereโ€™s a market for Kernza grain โ€” from artisan bread makers to brewers and whiskey distillers. Earlier this year, Patagonia and the brewery Dogfish Head partnered to produce a German-style pilsner beer brewed with Kernza called Kernza Pils. 

Typically, the benefit of a cover crop is that it helps nourish the soil, but figuring out how to make some money on that crop can be a challenge, Cabot said. โ€œThey know that theyโ€™re investing in their soil health,โ€ he said, โ€œbut sometimes itโ€™s hard to ask farmers to take a field out of production just to do this cover cropping.โ€ 

With Kernza, both could be possible, Cabot said. โ€œIโ€™m always concerned about alternative crops,โ€ he said, โ€œbecause the next question is where the hell am I going to sell this.โ€ Cabot said thereโ€™s a bakery in Fruita thatโ€™s already expressed interest in buying Kernza.

But even if it doesnโ€™t work out as a grain long-term, thereโ€™s still the potential as a drought-tolerant crop that could be used as forage, Cabot said. 

Kernza is not going to replace the high yields of alfalfa, Cabot said. But he thinks the crop could pair well with the types of water conservation programs being discussed around the Colorado River Basin โ€” programs that would pay farmers to use less water. Instead of taking a field completely out of production, perhaps a farmer could use less water by planting Kernza, get credit for the water savings and then still have a crop to show for it. 

โ€œIf we can lock in a lower-water use, decent protein, marketable crop โ€” Iโ€™m not saying thatโ€™s a unicorn, but itโ€™s another tool in the toolkit,โ€ Cabot said.

Research scientist Katie Russell manages a sister CSU ag research station near Cortez in southwestern Colorado, a region that has been hit hard by drought in recent years. Russell is already in the process of testing Kernza in that area, trying out different planting dates and seeding rates. Looking at what happens if itโ€™s a dry or wet winter. She said some farmers have started to express interest in the crop. A lot of folks are understanding that itโ€™s not business as usual anymore, she said.

โ€œWeโ€™re really trying to think outside the box and figure out alternative crops,โ€ Russell said. โ€œThis whole area has been very dependent on alfalfa, and for good reason. Itโ€™s a lucrative crop and it made sense for a long time. But there are so many conflicting issues with that.โ€

The U.S. Department of Agriculture is also in the process of getting started on Kernza research. The department is looking at seven spots around the country, including three in the West, one of which is located on Coloradoโ€™s Eastern Plains in Akron. Grace Miner, a Fort Collins-based USDA ag researcher who is part of the project, said thereโ€™s clearly a need for alternative crops, particularly on marginal lands where water supplies for irrigation might be more and more limited. 

โ€œThereโ€™s a lot of energy and enthusiasm around Kernza as a forage and a grain,โ€ Miner said.

At the research center in Fruita, Cabot and the rest of the team will know more about the Kernza they planted last week come spring. 

โ€œWe get to try something that farmers might be a little bit hesitant to try, and if it works it could be a contribution,โ€ Cabot said. โ€œIf itโ€™s something that makes their farms more profitable or able to withstand whatโ€™s coming, then, you know, you can kind of hang your hat on having done something for somebody else.โ€

Chris Outcalt covered Western water issues for The Colorado Sun until December 2022. He began his journalism career in New Hampshire, then moved West and became a reporter at the Lafayette News. He also was an associate editor at 5280 and a reporter for the Vail Daily. His freelance work has appeared in The Atlantic, Wired and Atavist. He is a recipient...