Editor’s note: Welcome to the 9th installment of our 15-week series Colorado 150, marking 150 years of statehood with our favorite Colorado things.
Colorado’s relationship with mining is as storied as it is sordid. What once was the land of dreams and high hopes in most cases left miners with empty pockets and the land full of scars.
Mining put Colorado on the U.S. map, and driving or hiking the network of old mining roads and rail lines is an education in how the industry charged into the high country, not letting much get in the way. The dream of something big, the rush for gold and silver, created incredible populations of hardy folks.
Mining camps were built on top of other mining camps. Churches and opera houses opened alongside saloons and brothels. Segregated cemeteries are filled with souls.
Towns popped up almost as quickly as they disappeared after the crash of the silver market, but in between came some amazing feats of 19th-century engineering.
The intrigue of what’s left behind is accessible to anyone wanting to learn more about Colorado’s affair with mining — from rolling down gentle dirt roads, rambling up high-mountain passes or strolling through any number of museums dedicated to the toil of miners.
We’ve culled some of those landmarks where you can spend a few hours at indoor (or underground) exhibitions or spend the day traveling the web of byways. This is just a taste of what’s out there in them there Colorado hills.
David Krause | Editor
Hanging Flume
High above the Dolores River, down the highway from Naturita on the way to the Utah border, a wooden historical marker notes an artifact of 1890s engineering — one that was only lightly used, at considerable expense, before being abandoned.
Hanging Flume, suspended from cliff walls for 6 miles to transport water for hydraulic mining at the Lone Tree Placer Mine, is a classic example of budget-busting construction, as it cost more than double its original $75,000 estimated price tag. While the sidewalls are long gone, timbers that supported the device remain, thanks largely to the dry Western Slope climate. In its three years of operation, it never proved to be as useful as hoped and was shut down.
St. Elmo Ghost Town
Tucked among towering 14,000-foot peaks southwest of Buena Vista, the beautifully restored buildings of St. Elmo are a starting point at the end of a road. In the winter there is plenty of snowshoeing around. And in the summers, it’s a last stop for off-road vehicles before they head out to some serious 4-wheel-drive places like Tincup or Hancock passes and the remnants of the mining history up there. When you’re ready to come back down, Mount Princeton Hot Springs are there to cure what got out of alignment bouncing around on bumpy roads. In St. Elmo, chipmunks and hummingbirds typically outnumber people.
Ludlow Massacre Site
The deadly tragedy near Trinidad after coal miners went on strike in 1914 is still remembered around the country each year by unions. Trying to break the strike, militias were sent by the governor and fired on a tent camp for the striking miners and set it on fire. Twenty-one people were killed, including more than a dozen women and children.
A dark day in Colorado history, but one that helped gain more rights for workers across the country. “It’s the most famous and most infamous event in a bigger struggle that historians often refer to as the Colorado Coalfield War,” University of Colorado professor Thomas Andrews said.
Vindicator Valley Trail
Located in Teller County just above Victor, this relatively easy 2-mile loop is a great way to wander past old gold mines that fueled the boom near Cripple Creek and get a peek at the active Cripple Creek & Victor Gold Mine. It’s just one trail in the Trails of Gold network promoted by the Southern Teller County Focus Group, which highlights the history of the area. The trail starts at the remains of the Theresa Gold Mine from 1895 and then passes through hundreds of old claims. One of the more interesting remnants is an old brick building where explosives were stored. With a network of tunnels underground, it’s wise to stay on the trail.
Creede Underground Mining Museum
This one is not easy to get to, but is well worth the effort. Just like the name says, this museum is completely underground after three miners in 1990 started blasting rocks to make room. Now, there are nearly two dozen displays, a gift shop and community center below the surface. Open year-round, it’s an inexpensive way to spend part of your trip. And if you’re really into the lore, the museum is part of San Juan Triangle Project, which is considered one of the largest outdoor collections of historical mining areas in the country.
National Mining Hall of Fame
Trying to sum up the history of mining seems like a gargantuan feat, but the museum on Leadville’s main drag is a great way to learn about the past and also modern-day exploration. After all, it is housed in the 1899 building that once was Leadville High School. The museum has since expanded and each room has a theme. The folks at the museum have an incredible collection of gems and minerals from around the world, but also can take you on a trip of how mining has developed from pickaxes and gold pans to massive trucks and hydraulic drilling.
Argo Mill
Probably one of the most visible remains of the mining days for those driving along Interstate 70, the mill is at the center of a revitalization going on in Idaho Springs just west of Denver. The mill and tunnel are open for tours, and the area is getting a huge boost with the opening of the Mighty Agro Cable Car. The cable car rises up to the Virginia Canyon Mountain Park, where hikers and mountain bikers will have access to nearly 30 miles of trails across 500 acres. The project includes a mountaintop plaza with eateries and an amphitheater.
Ashcroft Ghost Town
The history of this ghost town starts well before the miners descended on the Aspen area. The Ute people who roamed this part of Colorado were pushed out by those seeking silver. And later, it also nearly became a ski resort but World War II stopped those plans. Now it’s a purely Colorado place to crosscountry ski or snowshoe in the winter, and in the summer it’s a quick getaway from the glitz of Aspen. The paved section of Castle Creek Road is a big draw for cyclists coming and going from Aspen, so the summer time traffic is about patience and sharing the road.
Crystal Mill
The wooden structure that clings to a sheer rock outcrop above the Crystal River high in the West Elk Mountains has been loved to death and access has been restricted. The mill was a hydroelectric plant powering air compressors and ventilation systems in nearby mines and is one of the most photographed places in Colorado. The image can be seen around the country, from hotel rooms, to high-rise lobbies to dentist offices. The actual mill near Marble can still be seen from the road, but the trip isn’t for the faint of heart, and a 4-wheel drive vehicle is a must if you’re not hiking or mountain biking.
Hidee Gold Mine
Many of Colorado’s mining attractions have an area where visitors can pan for gold, but at the Hidee you get a taste of hands-on hard-rock mining as you chip away at a vein of gold ore with a hammer and chisel. Located near Central City, the mine tours touch on the local geology and history of the hills that are filled with the sounds of gamblers trying their luck in the nearby casinos, which have reshaped three of Colorado’s old mining towns. Best to call ahead just to make sure the mine tours have spots available.